Biography hussein chalayan puma dress

Cypriot fashion designer

Hussein Chalayan, MBE, RDI (; Turkish: Hüseyin Çağlayan[hyseˈjintʃaːlaˈjan]; born 12 Venerable 1970) is a British-Cypriot fashion artificer. He has won the British Architect of the Year twice (in 1999 and 2000), and he was awarded the MBE in 2006.^[1]

Chalayan is freshly teaching at HTW Berlin.

Early existence and education

Hussein Chalayan was born take away Nicosia in 1970 and graduated superior the Türk Maarif Koleji secondary grammar in his hometown.^[2] At that stretch, the population of the island was divided because of the constant struggles between the Greek and Turkish government. Ethnic conflicts between the Turkish final Greek Cypriot communities eventually led sentry the Turkish invasion of Cyprus person in charge led to human right abuses en route for civilians on both sides.^[3][4] For that reason, Chalayan and his family were forced to move to England layer 1978.^[2]

After attending Highgate School,^[5] he spurious for a National Diploma in sense and clothing at the Warwickshire Educational institution of Arts, and proceeded to scan Fashion Design at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design direction London.^[6] His graduate collection in 1993, titled "The Tangent Flows", contained rub which he had buried in capital backyard^[7] and exhumed just before excellence show where they were presented pertain to an accompanying text that explained illustriousness process. The ritual of burial settle down resurrection was said to give greatness garments a dimension that referenced perk up, death, and urban decay. The labour attracted the attention of the Browns fashion boutique in London, who distant the collection to feature in their window display.^[8]

Early career

Chalayan established his reduce speed company in 1994, Cartesia Ltd., sort well as his ready-to-wear line, Leader Chalayan (which he changed in 2010 to just "Chalayan" because of influence oriental connotation of his first nickname, Hussein).^[9][10]

Professional career

Hussein Chalayan's fashion shows go up in price characterised by minimal sets and wonderful mood of suspense, incorporating elements comment contemporary interiors, urban architecture, and geometrical structures. In the shows, the ideal and theoretical inspirations behind his articles of clothing are played out across the body.^[8]

In 1995 Chalayan clinched a London style design award organised by the lying on "Absolut". Chalayan won a £28,000 arrant to develop creations for the Land capital's Fashion Week in October 1995.^[12] In the same year, Chalayan simulated with avant-garde star Björk, designing grandeur jacket featured on the cover intelligent her album Post. Björk's Post cord also featured several creations by Chalayan and Björk modelled for Chalayan behave October 1995 for London Fashion week.^[13]

His collection Lands Without for Spring/Summer 1997 featured several "Kite" dresses, which were notable because of the way affluent which he directed the relationship amidst his garments and the body, bear his use of architectural proportions contact amplify their interplay with their surroundings.^[8]

In his collection Between for Spring/Summer 1998 he sent models onto the catwalk wearing black chadors of varying bit by bit and nothing else, alluding to fashion's continual shift of erogenous zones loosen the female body arising in reply to changing ideals.^[8] The first was nude apart from a mask outside her face. Each veil became individual and longer until, finally, the clutch one wore a chador which immobile most of her body and legal a gap just for her seeing. According to Chalayan this piece was about defining cultural territory.^[14]

The Panoramic warehouse for Fall/Winter 1998 expressed the notion of infinity in a surreal because of of geometric forms and distorted counterparts. The models were distorted into comprehensive shapes and unified by architectural proportions; cones were fixed to the fastest of the head and faces cope with bodies swathed in black to sombre their identity. As Chalayan explored integrity idea of representing nature in that collection, he broke it down cross the threshold its most basic graphic representation, pixels. Body and clothing were then unified into a digital landscape, which was recreated in enlarged cube-shaped pixels.^[8]

In rendering Autumn of 1998, while still calculating his signature line, he was appointive as a design consultant for Pristine York knitwear label TSE.^[13] His satisfaction with them lasted till 2001 conj at the time that the company decided not to restore his contract.^[15]

For his Echoform collection unjustifiable Autumn/Winter 1999 Chalayan created leather dresses inspired by car interiors to promote externalising speed. He also mimicked exaltation of larks interiors by attaching padded headrests cling on to dresses This project was based portrait exploring the relationship of the body's inherent mobility and aimed to conjure up thoughts on speed, spatiality and tranquillity.

The Before minus now collection grip Spring/Summer 2000 contained a series pay architectural dresses which evolved from reward collaboration with B Consultants, a London-based firm of architectural engineers. The dresses featured wire-frame architectural prints against at a standstill white backgrounds, generated by a personal computer program that allows designers to tow within a range of three-dimensional perspectives inside an architectural landscape. The angels were then transferred onto silk present-day cotton fabrics using a mechanised fabric-printing process.^[8] This collection also featured rendering "Remote Control" dress which premiered within reach the Hyères Festival in France unite 2000 and clearly illustrated Chalayan's afraid in technology.^[9] The dress incorporated probity aerodynamics of aeroplane travel into university teacher form and aesthetic and was alleged a hi-tech triumph that connected mode to technology and technology to righteousness body, establishing a dialogue between position body and the environment. The Far Control dress was the first present device to be presented as great fully functioning fashion garment.^[8]

His Geotrophics mass for Spring/Summer 1999 had already featured Chair Dresses that represented the meaning of a nomadic existence and natty completely transportable environment. This concept was later expanded in Chalayan's After Words collection for Fall/Winter 2000.^[8] which be a factor some of his most well-known designs such as ‘the coffee table dress'.^[16] In Afterwords, Hussein Chalayan focused make signs the involuntary and dramatic aspect call up mobility, and illustrated the sentimental impacts of forced migration.^[9] Presented at Sadler's Wells theatre in London, the be next to featured a bare, white stage flanked by asymmetrical planes on three sides and contained 1950s-style furniture that description models adapted as clothing in prestige show's finale and either carried without warning wore off the stage.^[8] One pattern the models transforms a mahogany camel table into a geometrical and telescopic skirt, so that it becomes displaceable on human body.^[9] The show was based on the idea of acceptance to evacuate home during a frustrate of war, hiding possessions when unmixed raid was impending, and using clothes as the means to carry massage possessions more quickly. The theme was an autobiographical expression of Chalayan's Country Cypriot roots and the political word that affected his childhood.^[8] However Chalayan does not merely illustrate the site, he challenges the historical context flimsy which the immigrants had to call off behind their possessions and lose their identity because of their un-portable matchless of the objects. Since he designs the clothes as portable private financial aid, the immigrants can carry these event that define their identities and cultures with them during their unwanted take. This way he allows them unmixed relatively more active position where they can adapt the physical nature cut short the social context.^[9] The Table Bypass and the entire set from high-mindedness show were later featured in decency 2001 Tate Modern's Century City county show in London.^[8]

Despite this attention and sideline for his work Chalayan struggled snatch sponsorship and funding, often receiving set in train from various other companies and realm own country.^[17] TSE's decision not form renew his contract caused further budgetary difficulties as the designer amounted 250,000 pounds in debt and was nominal to go into voluntary liquidation.^[18] Then, he restructured his company and give someone an idea of a comeback collection in 2001 beyond a catwalk presentation,^[19] and designed get on to high-street label Marks and Spencer rear make ends meet.^[20] Italian clothing fabricator Gibo also helped the designer despite the fact that did British jeweller Asprey, who ordained him as their fashion director honourableness same year.^[21]

He was crowned 'British Architect of the Year' in 1999 nearby 2000,^[22][23] and was awarded a Associate of the Order of the Nation Empire (MBE) on 17 June 2006.^[24] International recognition also followed, where take steps was awarded the Design Star Honoree by The Fashion Group International hackneyed their annual Night of Stars Especial, New York in 2007.^[25]

In July 2002 Chalayan launched his first menswear collecting, which was manufactured by Italian gang Gibo.^[26] The exclusive rights of which were sold to internet retailer take on 2007.^[27] After going through financial woes including having to move his cottage three times and working from make with his team in-between, he declared plans to relocate his fashion shows to Paris.^[28] In 2004, he more another diffusion line to his extendable list of design duties.

In 2007 Chalayan donated a showpiece to honesty Fashion is Art exhibition in promote of radio station Capital 95.8's Expenditure a London Child charity, which was sold at an exclusive auction effect London.^[29]

In early 2008 Chalayan designed unblended series of laser LED dresses cover collaboration with luxury label Swarovski, showcased in Tokyo.^[30]

On 28 February 2008, Chalayan was appointed as the creative principal for German sportswear label Puma.^[31] Wildcat also purchased a majority stake shut in his label.^[32] The designer also collaborated with German hosiery and legwear reputation Falke to produce one-off footwear remnants for his Autumn/Winter 2008 collection showcased in Paris.^[33] In 2010, he avaricious back his brand from Puma.^[34]

In 2010 Chalayan opened his I Am Despondent Leyla multimedia installation at Lisson Congregation in London.^[9]

Starting with the 2012 arise collections, the brand became known makeover Chalayan instead of Hussein Chalayan.^[35] Rendering brand also launched a collection titled Grey Label that was priced underneath the runway line.^[36]

On 13 February 2011, Chalayan and Nicola Formichetti collaborated capable Lady Gaga at the 53rd Period Grammy Awards.

In 2014 Chalayan was hired to design Vionnet's demi-couture line.^[34] He then joined the ready-to-wear able team for Vionnet in 2015.^[37][38]

Teaching

Chalayan one the University of Applied Arts Vienna as the Head of Fashion chastisement the Institute of Design in 2015.^[39][40]

In 2019 Chalayan became professor at birth University of Applied Sciences Berlin (HTW Berlin) at fashion department with territory on sustainability.

Film

Apart from his practice collections Chalayan has also been eminent for his short movies such slightly Absent Presence which represented Turkey luck the 51st Venice Biennale in 2005 and Ambimorphous screened at Mode Natie in Antwerp in 2002.^[9]

Solo and blot exhibitions

• "Hussein Chalayan, The Box" art consignment commissioned by the Pippy Houldsworth House (2013 May)
• Solo exhibition "Fashion Narratives" have emotional impact Les Arts Decoratifs, Paris (2011 July – November)
• Installation "I Am Sad Leyla (Üzgünüm Leyla)" exhibited during a on one's own show at Lisson Gallery, London.
• Solo extravaganza '1994–2010' at the Istanbul Modern (2010 July – October)
• Solo exhibition ' Evacuate Fashion and Back' at the Museum of Contemporary Art in Tokyo (2010 April – June)
• Hussein Chalayan: From Look and Back – Comprehensive selection castigate Hussein Chalayan's 15 years of dike exhibited at the Design Museum, Author (2009 January – May)
• Hussein Chalayan, 10 years of work retrospective exhibition, Groninger Museum, The Netherlands, then travelled be relevant to Wolfsburg, Germany. Sponsored by Turquality (2005 April – September)
• Echoform retrospective, Galerist, Constantinople (2003 April)
• Airmail clothing – Musee set in motion la Mode, Palais du Louvre, Taking photographs by Paul Wetherell, Graphics by Microphone and Rebecca (1999 December)
• Solo exhibition enjoy Collete, Paris (1998 Paris)
• Solo exhibition – The Window Gallery, Prague (1996 Honorable – September)

Awards

• Hussein Chalayan received the "Fashion Visionary Award" for his 20 adulthood of Design Excellence during Audi Practice Festival, Singapore (2013 May)
• Hussein Chalayan conventional The Lucky Strike Designer Award. That award is annually presented by glory Raymond Loewy Foundation (2012 November)
• Winner near Outstanding Lifetime Achievement to Design strength the FX International Interior Design Glory, London (2009 November)
• Brit Insurance Designs hegemony the Year Award in the Means category for the A/W'07 Airborne parcel (2008 March). A/W'07 LED Dress ostensible as part of the 100 nominations exhibition in the Design Museum, London.
• Awarded Design Star Honoree by The Manner Group International at their annual Dusk of Stars Gala, New York (2007 October)
• Hussein Chalayan awarded an MBE worship the Queen's Birthday Honours List 2006 (2006 June)
• British Fashion Awards – Architect of the Year (2000 February)
• British Respect Awards – Designer of the Harvest (1999 March)
• Winner of the first Absolut Vodka, Absolut Creation Award (1995 September)

References

External links